5 February—Among the foodie programs airing on left-wing (i.e., public) radio and television is Christopher Kimball’s Milk Street. Kimball has been involved in culinary publishing, broadcasting, and marketing since his graduation from Columbia University in the early seventies. He was co-founder, editor, and publisher of magazines and host of cooking shows America’s Test Kitchen and Cook’s Country from America’s Test Kitchen.
Several years ago Kimball was canned by his foodie media empire, probably by some people he had hired. (An unintentional but serendipitous pun I’ll leave on the back burner.) That’s why he moved to Boston’s Milk Street and founded a new foodie empire.
Food is certainly one of Christopher Kimball’s strengths. Along with marketing. He’s a master of both. And his personality helps. I don’t know how much of Milk Street’s revenue comes from the ridiculously expensive stuff he hawks in emails and presumably everywhere else, but it must be a lot. Because Chris Kimball has skillfully tapped into a fantastic lode of wannabe gourmet cooks and bakers who will pay any price for anything they believe (or hope) will perform miracles in their kitchens.
Kind of like golfers with miracle drivers and putters.
Here are some of the implements and a comestible you can’t do without that are hyped in Milk Street’s daily emails. With editorial comments, of course, IN ALL CAPS:
Milk Street Precision Peeler. “Finally! A Vegetable Peeler for the 21st Century. $37.50 $29.95 20% OFF—You Save $7.55.” THE AMOUNT YOU SAVE CAN BUY A VEGETABLE PEELER. BUT PROBABLY NOT PRECISION. WHAT DOES BEETLE BAILEY USE?
Artelegno Curved Magnetic Knife Block $249.95. A BEAUTIFUL MULTI-WOOD SCULPTURE FOR TEN KNIVES—IF YOU KNOW WHERE TO PUT THEM.
Gassiri Tongs $39.95. THEY’RE STAINLESS STEEL, AFTER ALL. AND VERY STYLISH.
Hasegawa Wood Core Soft Rubber Cutting Board $139.95. “This cutting board is not only durable, but it also will prolong the life of your knife blade.” The rubber is anti-microbial, of course. BUT IT ISN’T EVEN DECORATIVE. AND HOW OFTEN DOES THE RUBBER NEED TO BE REPLACED?
Aux Co. Mesh Cover $39.95. FOR A SPLATTER SCREEN!?
Hario V60 15-ounce Coffee Glass $24.95 (It had been $15.95). IT’S DOUBLE-WALLED, AFTER ALL. ISN’T V60 ALSO A VOLVO?
Eatco Toku Egg Beater $19.95. A LITTLE STICK WITH A RING ATTACHED. FOR HUMMINGBIRD EGGS?
Crushgrind Copenhagen Grinder $109.95. ELEGANT DESIGN WITH A LONG CRANK HANDLE FOR EXTRA-HARD PEPPERCORNS.
Midnight Slice pizza slicing-wheel $49.95. ELEGANT DESIGN. HAMMACHER SCHLEMMER HAVE A MORE ELEGANT MEZZALUNA FOR $69.95.
CS Fishery Oregon Albacore Tuna $15.50. BUT IT IS 7¾ OUNCES. AT LEAST IT’S NOT AS PRICY AS CAVIAR AND MUST TASTE BETTER.
Raisenne XL Bread Dough Riser $109.99. A SILICONE ELECTRIC HEATING PAD FOR PROOFING DOUGH. FOR IMPATIENT BAKERS. VERY EASY TO STORE.
Brod & Taylor Folding Bread Proofer $199.95. A BOX WITH A DIGITAL TIMER. FOR IMPATIENT BAKERS WITH MORE TO SPEND. AND IT COLLAPSES FOR STORAGE WITH ALL THE OTHER STUFF YOU DISCOVER YOU DON’T NEED.
Cuisipro Measuring Cups $47.50. A STANDARD FOUR-CUP SET, STAINLESS STEEL, NOT STERLING OR EVEN SILVER PLATE.
Zatoba Black Walnut Bread Lame $35.95. A BOX CUTTER TO SCORE BREAD LOAVES WHEN A KNIFE ISN’T AVAILABLE IN THE KITCHEN. BUT THE HANDLE IS FASHIONABLE.